CONSEILS ET ENTRETIEN
Apprendre à accorder sa guitare
Je vous propose deux façons d’accorder la guitare, une méthode plus moderne et l’autre plus ancienne.
La première façon, moderne :
C'est utiliser un accordeur électronique pour accorder la guitare, nous allons suivre le repère du curseur pour accorder. Pour cela nous avons deux options :
1- Utiliser un petit appareil électronique, un "accordeur", qui est fabriqué dans le but précis de régler le son des cordes de la guitare, avec l'option d’avoir un métronome incorporé, qui est une bonne solution.
2- La deuxième option est avoir une application d'accordeur directement installé dans votre téléphone portable, tablette ou ordinateur. Je vous recommande Guitar Tuna
Pour accorder la guitare, vous allez chercher le nom des cordes, représenté par des lettres en majuscule, par exemple: A B C D E F G :
La première corde, la plus aigüe, le mi = E
La deuxième la corde, le si = B
La troisième la corde, le sol = G
La quatrième corde de ré = D
La cinquième, la corde de la = A
La plus grave, la sixième corde de mi = E
Tuner and metronome with a microphone.
Contact tuner with a clamp to hang in the hand of the guitar.
Tuner application for phone.
Pedal tuner for
brreedr the guitar jack.
La deuxième façon, "à l'ancienne" :
La deuxième façon d’accorder la guitare, c’est une façon traditionnelle, la plus ancienne, avec l’aide d’un diapason. en métal percussif ou en en sifflet.
Le diapason :
Le diapason désigne la note dont la hauteur sert de référence pour l'accord des voix et des instruments, il se présente en métal en forme de U ou en forme de sifflet, qui produit la note La dans une fréquence de 440 hertz . Simple, peu onéreux, stable et ne nécessitant pas d'alimentation.
On peut trouver aussi un diapason spécialement conçu pour la guitare avec les six notes dans le diapason.
Le mode d'emploi :
1- Il faut d'abord accorder à l’oreille la 5ème corde grave du la = A avec le diapason.
2- Ensuite, accorder la 4ème corde de ré = D, en appuyant sur la 5ème case de la 5ème Corde de la = A, pour avoir la note de ré et régler 'a l'oreille, la 4ème corde à vide.
3- Faire la même chose pour accorder la 3ème corde de Sol = G, en trouvant la note de sol sur la 5eme case de la 4ème corde. Et régler à l’oreille la corde de sol à vide
4- Pour accorder la 2ème corde de si = B, c’est diffèrent, nous allons appuyer sur la 4ème case de la corde de sol = G, pour trouver la note de si. Et régler à l’oreille la corde de si à vide
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4- Pour accorder la 1er Corde de mi = E, la plus aigue. Nous allons retourner a appuyer sur la 5ème case de la Corde de Si = B, pour trouve- la note de mi. Et régler à l’oreille la corde de mi à vide
5- Finalement, pour accorder la Corde de mi = E, la plus grave il faut appuyer sur la 7ème case de la 5ème corde de la = A, pour trouver la note de mi, et régler à l’oreille la corde de mi grave à vide. Une autre solution c’est de simplement accorder la 1er corde de mi aigue à vide avec la 6ème corde grave de mi aussi à vide.
Diapason with the note a.
Tuning fork for typing with a stick
Tuning fork whistle with the 6 notes of the strings of the guitar.
Diapason with the note a.
Guitar stand: which model to choose?
Whether acoustic or electric, the guitar should be handled with care. It is indeed a fragile instrument which is easily scratched. To offer it full protection and store it properly in your studio or apartment, the solution is to adopt a guitar stand, stand or guitar rest, one of the essential accessories for the guitar.
It comes in different versions: models that are fixed to the wall to those that are posed on the ground, through the rack supports.
Here are our tips for finding the perfect model.
Stand posé au sol pour un maximum de sécurité
Pratique, ce type de stand s’installe directement sur le plancher. On le rencontre souvent dans les salles de musique, les salles de spectacle et les studios d’enregistrement. Transportable, le support au sol est l’accessoire qu’il vous faut si vous vous déplacez fréquemment avec votre guitare. Vous avez le choix entre un stand bas et un support trépied. Le principal avantage de ce type de support est sa mobilité. Etant léger et peu encombrant, les trépieds et stand bas ce plient et se transportent n'importe où sans problème.
Le premier est un modèle basique composé d’un montant et d’un socle pliable sur lequel repose la caisse de la guitare. Vous pouvez le ranger facilement dans la housse de votre instrument. Le second, quant à lui, maintient la guitare par la tête. Disposant d’une pince munie d’un système de verrouillage, il a l’avantage d’être stable. Il n’y aura donc aucun risque de basculement.
Stand mural pour gagner de la place
Si vous manquez de place, le support mural est une solution envisageable. Avec ce modèle, vous allez pouvoir suspendre votre guitare au mur. Il permet d’ailleurs d’instaurer une ambiance rock. Ce type de stand se décline en deux versions :
- Stand mural simple avec une fourche à deux dents sur laquelle se pose la tête de la guitare.
- Stand mural avec des languettes qui bloquent automatiquement l’instrument, afin de l’immobiliser.
Les avantages ? C'est le stand le moins encombrant et le plus discret/esthétique.
Les inconvénients ? Le support mural doit pouvoir être vissé à un mur (ce qui n'est pas évident avec une location par exemple) et est donc moins mobile que le trepied.
Quelques conseils d’achat
Le choix d’un stand de guitare dépend de vos besoins, de l’espace dont vous disposez et de vos préférences.
Notez toutefois qu’un support prévu pour une guitare électrique ne s’adapte pas à une guitare acoustique puisque ses pattes sont étroites, à moins que la largeur soit réglable.
Pensez également à vérifier les matériaux de fabrication lors de l’achat. Un support solide offre une sécurité optimale à votre guitare.
Eheatings
Without instrument: Movement which stimulates the cardiovascular system, a light gymnastics of the body, arms, hands and fingers.
To the instrument
• Slow speed, dynamic easy to perform (p, mf)
• No extreme or forced positions
• Without cognitive demands at the start
• Without vibrato, minimal pressure on the strings
• Comfortable pieces, ranges or technical exercises.
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THE WONDERFUL BUT TERRIBLE CAPO
The capo (capo) is a tool that attaches to the fretboard, and frets the six strings at the fret you choose. This fret then acts as a nut, allowing you to play all your open string chords in a higher key. There are a lot of kinds and they are all effective (you are paying for the durability and suitability of the tool).
Try one and see how it can increase the possibilities of your instrument. The capo can become a bit of a crutch, however. Remember to try transposing into new keys without a capo (page 78).
WITH THE FINGERS OR NOT WITH THE FINGERS
Fingerpicking (discussed in Chapter 4) can be used with the pads of the fingers, fingernails, or with tabs. These are made of plastic or metal and are wrapped around the fingers and / or thumb. Once you get used to them, they will produce clear tones that are relatively more powerful than otherwise. The other advantage is that you don't have to worry about the condition of your nails since the tabs replace them, providing consistent sound all the time.
Tabs also have a lot of drawbacks. They can hamper your technique, forcing you to make special adjustments to attack a next note. Also, the even tone of the tabs does not produce a lot of nuance in tone. While they work very well for some musicians, doing without them offers greater possibilities for tonal colors, and a healthier technique for the muscles of the hand and forearm. The problem of technical difficulties can be partly solved by carefully choosing this or that other type of tab.
Using a thumb tab only is a good compromise. This makes it possible to have strong, clear bass and a variety of colors at your fingertips. The thumb tab is popular with musicians who like to mix "strumming" attacks and finger playing in the same song.
The metronome is a calibrated mechanical tool (spring, drum or digital) that beats the beat to help you play well in place. You can adjust the beat from very very slow to very very fast. The speed is marked in beats per minute. A metric speed of 60 provides one pulse per second. The simplest metronomes “knock”, and the more sophisticated will offer drum sounds and even mark the various beats of the measure.
Through regular use (and with a little patience), the metronome will help you to play well in place, in a stable manner. However, the only really good practical technique is to play with another person who has a good sense of rhythm - which may not be possible every day.
Don't let the metronome drive you crazy! First of all, it may seem to speed up or slow down while you are playing. Listen carefully - it is not him but you who are fluctuating. Play at a slow, steady tempo to work the first few days, and try out the metronome on a song you like. Observe how many bars you can play before you shift with the metronome. Gradually build up your stamina before increasing your speed.
Maintaining the instrument in tune is a particularly delicate challenge for the beginner guitarist. Well tuning an instrument requires practice and experience. If you feel that your chords don't sound right enough, consider investing in an electronic tuner.
There are two types of electronic tuners: the solo guitar tuner, and the chromatic tuner. The guitar solo tuner has calibrations for each of the open strings. You simply select the string, play it into the tuner's microphone, and the tuner will tell you if the note is too high (too high), too low (too low), or properly tuned. The advantage of guitar tuners is that they are inexpensive. The downside is that if one of your strings is too far out of the standard tuning, the tuner won't know what note you're playing and you might tune everything else too high or too low. The chromatic tuner samples the note you play and tells you which note is closest, and whether you are above or below that note. Although a little more expensive, the chromatic tuner is more convenient for tuning a variety of instruments. There, just make sure you know which string is relative to which note!
Don't just rely on electronic tuners. After you've tuned yourself with the tuner, check that your strings are tuned to each other using the technique described on page 7. Play a few chords and see if they sound right. You may need to go back to some strings and re-tune them.
There are a lot of gadgets on the market that are designed to build strength in the fingers. Usually these gadgets train with finger pressure. While it is conceivable that such items could help build strength to fret notes, be very careful. Usually, those who force you to press against resistance focus on working the wrong muscles. Playing the guitar requires agility and precision rather than brute force. Agility and precision are acquired through technical and practice exercises. Strength trainers, on the other hand, can cause tension and inflammation in the muscles of the hand and forearm.
BASIC TECHNIQUE
It is important at the beginning to play in the most relaxed way possible, and whatever the various techniques approached, this approach will remain valid. That said, you will achieve your goals thanks to two elements:
They will allow you to focus on the technique without worrying about where you are in the music unfolding.
When working on songs or new techniques, be aware of your hand position, posture, rhythm, and touch.
WHEN TO PRACTICE
When you are starting out, or when you are learning new techniques, your best is to practice often. Spend five to ten minutes on a new thing, it will work a lot better than an hour every three or four days. If you have the opportunity to practice at the same time each day, you will see great improvements. You will also notice that your concentration is better. If you can't practice at the same time each day, try at least a few minutes each day, and then supplement with longer sessions every other day.
WHAT TO PRACTICE
Better to work a few different things in each session. This will keep you from getting bored, and will help you progress quickly. Work two or three things every day for a week, then set your work for the next week. Some of these goals may include playing music, improvising, working on a new melody or chord progression, making sure you spend the right amount of time on each topic each time you play.
ORGANIZE YOUR WORKING SESSION
Here is a session model developed over 30 minutes, which you can adopt for a few weeks. Depending on the time you have available, adapt the duration to each topic.
1. Technical exercises 5 minutes
These include finger exercises, counting practice, kicking time, warm-ups and scales.
2. Music / melody playback 10 minutes
3. Play songs / chords 10 minutes
WHAT TO LISTEN TO.
Anyone who learns an instrument has their own unique taste and musical inspiration. And since you have decided to learn the acoustic guitar, listen to some of your favorite songs again, paying special attention to the guitarists. Observe the role of the guitar in music - when it is playing and also when it is not. Pay attention to the touch and the sound that the musician puts into the music. Does he use a media tor, fingerpicking or something else? Try to identify the chords and rhythms you are learning - you will hear a lot of them!
Besides listening to your favorite tunes with new ears, try playing music in styles you've never heard. Take the advice of other guitarists or musicians. Be careful not to limit yourself to just the guitar! Each instrument has something of interest to offer the curious musician.
Here are some acoustic guitarists to listen to during your start-up phase:
BRAZILIAN:
CLASSIC:
IMPROVISED MUSK:
FOLK & ROCK:
Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young
Kurt Cobain (Nirvana)
Bob dylan
Steve earle
Melissa Etheridge
Jay Farrar (Son Volt and UncleTupelo) Indigo Girls
Jewel
John prine
Darius Rucker (Hootie & the Blowfish) JeffTweedy (Wilco and UncleTupelo)
BLUES:
John lee hooker
Mississippi John Hurt
Brownie mcghee
COUNTRY, BLUEGRASS & OLD-TIME:
The Carter Family
Johnny cash
Lester Flatt (Flatt & Scruggs)
Cary Fridley (Freight Hoppers)
Nancy Griffith
Woody guthrie
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